Skip to main content
Search the guides
A grey Ferguson TE20 standing in long grass at Philiphaugh
Photo by Walter Baxter / CC BY-SA 2.0
Guide

The best classic tractors to buy: honest picks for first-timers and old hands

The tractors

Every tractor rally has a corner where someone is asking the same question: which classic tractor should I actually buy? The honest answer depends on your budget, your storage and what you want the machine to do, so this guide gives real recommendations for each case rather than a list of famous names, drawing on the model-by-model detail in our classic tractor guides.

The short answer

For most first-time buyers the choice comes down to two machines. The Ferguson TE20, the Little Grey Fergie, is the cheapest and most beginner-friendly classic tractor in Britain: simple, light, hugely supported, and still capable of real work. The Massey Ferguson 135 is the step up, a tractor so usable that many are still earning their keep on smallholdings; it costs more but does everything better. Buy whichever of the two your budget reaches, in the best condition you can find, and you will not regret it.

Best on a tight budget: Ferguson TE20

Running TE20s start around £1,500, which buys more classic per pound than anything else on wheels. The petrol and petrol-paraffin versions are the cheapest and simplest; the diesels start more easily and pull harder but cost more. Parts support is extraordinary for a machine that ended production in 1956, and the Ferguson System hydraulics are the reason every modern tractor works the way it does, so you are buying a piece of engineering history as well as a hobby. Its limits are period ones: feeble brakes, no live drive on early examples, and a top speed that makes road runs a social occasion.

A grey Ferguson TE20 at a rally, front three-quarter view, in a line of orange tractors
The Little Grey Fergie: more classic per pound than anything else on wheels.Photo by Mick from Northamptonshire, England / CC BY 2.0

Best all-rounder: Massey Ferguson 135

If the budget stretches to £3,000 or beyond, the 135 is the sensible answer to almost every version of the question. The Perkins three-cylinder diesel is famously durable, everything about the tractor feels a generation more modern than the Fergie, and it remains genuinely useful for topping, chain-harrowing or hauling a trailer. It is also the easiest classic tractor to sell on, because demand never sleeps. The similar-sized Fordson Dexta and Super Dexta make fine alternatives at slightly softer money.

A red Massey Ferguson 135 at a Cornish vintage rally, front three-quarter view
The 135 does everything the Fergie does, better, for a little more money.Photo by Mutney / CC0

Best for something different: the underdogs

The volume Fords and Fergusons dominate rallies, which makes the other British marques the characterful choice. A David Brown brings distinctive engineering and a loyal club at David Brown prices, which is to say reasonable ones. A Nuffield offers big-tractor presence and the marque’s orange paint stands out in any lineup. The later Leyland models are the movement’s best-kept secret, modern enough to use hard and still often under £5,000. None of these will be the only one of its kind at a show, but they will not be one of forty either.

A red vintage David Brown tractor at a country fair, UK registration UVS 491
A David Brown brings character and club support without the Fergie's ubiquity.Photo by Martin Pettitt / CC BY 2.0

Best if money is no object

The collector’s end of the field belongs to the conversions and the characters: four-wheel-drive County and Roadless machines, the twin-engined Doe Triple-D, and the single-cylinder Field Marshall with its thumping exhaust and cartridge start. These are wonderful machines and terrible first tractors: expensive to buy, specialist to fix, and rife enough with replicas and re-creations that expert verification is essential. Values for the best are covered in our classic tractor values guide. Work up to them.

A Fordson Super Major and a four-wheel-drive Ford County 1124 at a steam and country show
A County beside the Fordson it grew from. The conversions are wonderful machines and terrible first tractors.Photo by Robert Lamb / CC BY-SA 2.0

What to check before you buy any of them

Condition beats model choice every time, so inspect with the same discipline whatever the badge. Start it from cold: a tractor that needs ether or a tow to wake up is telling you something. Check the hydraulics lift and hold, that the brakes work (many barely do), that the tyres are not perished through, because a pair of new rears can cost a third of the tractor’s value, and that the clutch is not slipping. Look for weeping head gaskets, milky oil and crude welding around the drawbar and loader mounts. Above all confirm the paperwork: a V5C in the seller’s name, and ideally the original registration number. A tractor without registration can be put right, but the process, covered in owning a classic tractor, takes patience, and the price should reflect it.

The rear of a Ferguson TE20 showing its three-point linkage and hydraulic arms
The business end: make sure the hydraulics lift and hold, whatever the badge on the nose.Photo by Vauxford / CC BY-SA 4.0

Buying it, moving it, living with it

Budget beyond the hammer price. Moving a tractor home needs a plant trailer or a haulier, dry storage matters more than for a car because sitting outside kills these machines slowly, and while running costs are tiny, insurance, the odd tyre and consumables are not zero. All of it is manageable, which is exactly why the classic tractor movement keeps growing: no other corner of the old-vehicle world gives you so much machine, so much community and so little financial pain for the money.

A weathered Leyland tractor with loader standing disused in a field
What sitting outside does. Dry storage matters more than mechanical skill.Photo by David Robinson / CC BY-SA 2.0
Quick answers

Frequently asked questions

What is the best classic tractor for a beginner?

The Ferguson TE20 or the Massey Ferguson 135. The TE20 is the cheapest way in, mechanically simple, light enough to handle easily, and supported by clubs and parts suppliers better than almost any old vehicle in Britain. The 135 costs a little more but starts, drives and works almost like a modern machine. Either can be maintained at home with basic tools, and both are easy to sell on if the hobby is not for you.

What is the most reliable old tractor?

Among British classics, the Massey Ferguson 135 has the strongest everything-just-works reputation, with the Perkins three-cylinder diesel a byword for durability. The Ferguson TE20 and Fordson Major are equally rugged in a cruder way; there is less on them to go wrong. Reliability in old tractors is mostly about condition and care rather than badge, and a well-maintained example of any volume model will start on the button all season.

How much should I pay for my first classic tractor?

Between about £2,000 and £5,000 buys a sensible first tractor: a running, usable TE20, Dexta, or David Brown at the lower end, or a tidy Massey Ferguson 135 at the top of it. Cheaper projects exist but a first-timer almost always spends less overall buying a sorted runner than reviving a £800 barn find. Leave the four-figure temptations on the classifieds until you know the model's weak points.

Are old tractors hard to maintain?

They are among the easiest old vehicles to keep. Everything is accessible, the engineering is deliberately simple, parts availability for the volume models is outstanding, and the club scene freely shares knowledge. The genuine chores are the unglamorous ones: keeping on top of tyres, brakes and hydraulics on a machine that may sit unused for months. Storage under cover matters more than mechanical skill.

Which classic tractors should a first-time buyer avoid?

Anything rare, converted or incomplete. Single-cylinder Field Marshalls are wonderful but a specialist taste with specialist prices, County and Roadless conversions cost serious money and demand expert verification, and any tractor missing its registration paperwork or major parts turns into a project fast. Avoid unusual imports with thin UK parts support, and treat a seized engine as a much bigger job than the seller suggests.
Keep reading

Related across themes